While the promise of beauty may come with a price, would you be willing to trade hundreds of tiny needle pricks for radiant skin? If concerns about dermarolling are holding you back, let me ease your doubts. The process is less intimidating than it seems.
Table of Contents
What Is Derma Rolling?
Derma rollers are small, hand-held devices featuring numerous microneedles, typically ranging from 0.25 mm to 1.5 mm in length and boasting a diameter of approximately 0.1 mm (source). The standard design consists of a drum-shaped surface, punctuated by 192 fine needles. This unique tool is commonly utilized for Collagen Induction Therapy, or CIT, which leverages the microneedles’ ability to create tiny punctures on the skin’s surface.
As these micro-wounds heal, they trigger the skin’s natural repair mechanisms, ultimately leading to the production of a new layer of collagen beneath the epidermis. I’ll delve deeper into this process later in the article.
The History of Dermarolling
The story of dermabrasion begins with Ernst Kromayer, a German dermatologist often referred to as the father of the technique. In 1905, he filed a patent application for a ‘therapeutic apparatus’ that would eventually evolve into the device we know today as a derma roller. Initially, this invention featured circular knives powered by a motor, designed to remove dead skin layers. Kromayer later improved upon his design, incorporating rotating burrs attached to a dental drill.
The primary objective of the device was to eliminate these dead skin layers, marking the first recorded appearance of a dermabrasion tool. Notably, Kromayer also proposed the concept of scar-free healing, contingent on not disrupting the deeper reticular layers of the dermis.
‘Manual of Cosmetics’
Later, Charles Lázár, a Hungarian physician, built upon the practice of using a ‘dental drilling machine’ for cosmetic purposes. He wrote a comprehensive manual detailing the technique, which unfortunately failed to gain recognition in the medical community due to its classification as ‘cosmetic art’ by the British Medical Journal in 1937.
Despite this, Lázár’s work demonstrated innovative thinking, including his suggestion that the machine be controlled by foot to ensure slow and precise drilling of the skin. Additionally, he proposed using variously sized burrs to treat a range of skin issues, including acne, freckles, pigmented nævi, and milia. His invention ultimately helped Lázár effectively address these concerns, showcasing his ingenuity in the field.
New Derma Roller
In 1953, Abner Kurtin revolutionized Kromayer’s original prototype by replacing dental burrs with stainless steel wire brushes. This innovative approach was later championed by Nobel laureate Alexis Carrell, who brought his expertise to New York – a city that was rapidly becoming the hub of dermatology. Fast forward to 1995, when Carrell’s protégés, David and Norman Orentreich, developed a new technique utilizing hypodermic needles.
This marked a significant turning point in the evolution of micro-needling technology. Interestingly, André Camirand and his associate Jocelyne Doucet discovered that needling not only reduced scar tissue formation but also led to the development of derma rolling as we know it today. Initially, they used tattoos to camouflage scars, later realizing that needles were the key to achieving this outcome.
The concept of micro-needling gained widespread acceptance with the help of contemporary dermatologists. And so, Kurtin’s original wire brush design from 1955 laid the foundation for a technique that has become increasingly popular over time.
How Does Derma Rolling Work?
When you use a derma roller, it’s essential to grasp what happens at the microscopic level. As the microneedles puncture the outermost layer of your skin, they create tiny openings that don’t cause harm to this delicate surface. You may notice some minor bleeding, but this process actually triggers a natural wound healing response. This, in turn, sets off a cascade of events: fibroblasts begin producing collagen, and the needles break down scar tissue without damaging the epidermis.
Ultimately, new collagen and elastin formations lead to the tightening of your skin.
Is Derma Rolling Safe?
Derma rolling may seem intimidating at first glance, but rest assured it’s a completely safe and non-invasive treatment for everyone, regardless of their ethnicity, race, or skin tone (source). The microneedles don’t cause actual wounds, instead, they trick the body into thinking it’s been injured, allowing you to repeat the procedure as many times as needed.
This technique is particularly effective in treating wrinkles, scars, and other skin imperfections where traditional methods like laser treatments and deep peels may not be effective (source). One of the biggest advantages of derma rolling is its chemical-free nature, which makes it a great alternative for those looking to stimulate collagen production without harsh chemicals.
You can use this technique on any part of your body, including the face, neck, chest, and more, regardless of skin type. While some minor redness may occur immediately after treatment due to increased blood flow (erythema), this is a normal and temporary side effect that subsides within 24 hours. As long as you follow proper instructions and technique, derma rolling is a safe and effective way to achieve the desired results.
Derma Rolling Benefits
Increases Chemical Absorption
By opening up microchannels on the skin’s surface, derma rolling unlocks the door to enhanced absorption levels, as science has consistently shown. When the skin is punctured, chemicals can effortlessly bypass its outermost layer and reach deeper layers, allowing for unimpeded transportation of beauty products. This unique property enables the skin to absorb a greater amount of active ingredients from various products, exposing it to their beneficial effects.
In fact, micro-needling technology has been applied in medical settings to facilitate transdermal drug delivery, where needles are used to transmit substances such as growth hormones, insulin, and vaccines like influenza and aspirin. Additionally, this process can be paired with various substances for optimal penetration, a technique known as mesotherapy.
Induces Collagen Production and Tightens Skin
When minor skin injuries occur, our brain responds by releasing growth factors that facilitate healing and collagen production, as research has shown (source). This natural process is reinforced by derma rolling, a treatment that has been found to be particularly effective in stimulating the production of these essential proteins, with studies dating back to 2014 highlighting its promise (source).
The significance of this lies in the fact that low levels of collagen are often linked to the formation of wrinkles. By promoting collagen production, derma rolling helps to maintain healthy, taut skin.
Repairs Visible Scars
A study from 2009 demonstrated the efficacy of micro-needling therapy in reducing acne scars by over 88.7%, attributed to improved collagen production. This is consistent with derma rolling’s ability to break down scar tissue, facilitated by the accumulation of collagen that rejuvenates skin through even distribution. While derma rollers can help fade a range of scars, they are not effective against keloid scars. Micro-needling also presents an alternative treatment for post-burn scarring.
However, when dealing with severe scars, it’s essential to consult a professional to determine the most appropriate course of action. In such cases, longer needles may be required, emphasizing the importance of seeking expertise.
Reduces Skin Discoloration
The impact of the sun on skin appearance cannot be overstated. However, when used to boost collagen production, derma rolling can effectively reverse the damage caused by prolonged exposure to harsh UV rays. This, in turn, reduces discoloration, including hyperpigmentation associated with melasma (source).
By removing the top layer of skin and regulating abnormal melanin production, derma rolling is emerging as a leading treatment for photoaged skin, offering a promising solution for individuals seeking to mitigate the effects of sun-damaged skin.
Reduces Stretch Marks
Stretch mark formation is attributed to rapid skin stretching, a process that proves more challenging to treat than scars themselves. While derma rolling has demonstrated some effectiveness in addressing these imperfections (), seeking professional guidance remains the best course of action. It’s essential to note that achieving desired results often requires a series of sessions, typically spanning 3 to 12 treatments.
One notable advantage of derma rolling is its versatility, permitting use on any area of the body.
Tightens Pores
Derma rolling is often misunderstood as a means to enlarge pores by puncturing the skin. However, the reality is quite the opposite. When your body produces collagen in response to derma rolling, the surrounding area of the pore becomes plump and tightens it, effectively reducing their appearance. It’s important to note that while derma rolling can be beneficial for tightening pores, it may not completely eliminate enlarged pores as this characteristic is often genetically predetermined.
Treats Alopecia
While hair loss can be a frustrating and distressing experience, research suggests that micro-needling your scalp can be an effective way to combat thinning or balding. Specifically, studies have shown that derma rolling can help treat alopecia, also known as male-patterned baldness, by stimulating the brain to release endothelial growth factor. This natural process then promotes hair growth and increases hair follicle size, leading to a fuller and healthier-looking head of hair.
Dermarolling Misconceptions
It’s time to set the record straight on a few common misunderstandings that have been floating around. I’m talking about the myths and misconceptions that have taken on a life of their own. It’s high time we address these inaccuracies head-on and get back to the truth.
Micro-Needling Doesn’t Reduce Cellulite
While it’s unfortunate that many women struggle with cellulite, derma rolling is not the solution for getting rid of this skin imperfection. Although it effectively addresses various skin concerns, its limitations mean it cannot target cellulite specifically. Instead, a more comprehensive approach may be necessary. By adopting a healthier diet, regular exercise, and increasing water intake, individuals can potentially reduce the appearance of cellulite.
At present, there is no conclusive evidence linking micro-needling to cellulite reduction, highlighting the need for further research in this area.
Derma Rollers Cannot Be Reused
While some sellers of derma rollers may claim that they can be reused, this is actually at odds with FDA guidelines, which classify these devices as disposable medical products. This disparity arises from the fact that dermarollers are designed to penetrate the skin, requiring strict quality control measures. However, once a derma roller loses its sterility, there’s no feasible way to restore it to its original state – short of possessing a gamma-ray machine.
Furthermore, the needles tend to lose their sharpness with repeated use, rendering them less effective in the long run.
What Needle Size Should You Use?
When it comes to choosing the right needle size for your needs, it’s essential to consider the specific skin issues or body areas you’re targeting. As you’ve likely gathered, different needle lengths can provide distinct benefits. To help you make an informed decision, here are some potential advantages associated with each needle length:
25 mm Needles
While 0.25 mm dermarollers may not be the most effective at stimulating collagen production, they can still play a useful role in enhancing skin absorption. The good news is that this process is completely pain-free and can have a positive impact on your overall skincare routine. Furthermore, vitamin C, which is often absorbed more effectively through increased skin permeability, can also stimulate collagen production naturally, making it an added benefit of using dermarollers.
50 mm Needles
When using a 0.5 mm derma roller, the benefits become even more pronounced for treating superficial skin issues and minor discolorations. The rollers’ ability to stimulate collagen production is also amplified. While some mild discomfort may be experienced, the results are well worth it. As someone who has personally used this needle size, I can attest to its effectiveness. If you’re curious about the outcomes that can be achieved with this specific derma roller, keep reading to learn more.
75-1.0 mm Needles
When utilizing a derma roller with needle lengths ranging from 0.75 to 1.0 mm, it’s generally recommended to focus on addressing wrinkles and scars. This type of device is more likely to cause discomfort due to its potency, making the use of an anesthetic to numb the area advisable. Additionally, some individuals may experience minor bleeding as a result.
5-3.0 mm Needles
For those considering using 1.5 – 3.0 mm derma rollers, it’s crucial to do so with the guidance of a professional. These devices are not designed for DIY use and should be reserved for expert-led skin treatments. The needles can be particularly effective in addressing severe scarring and stretch marks, although they may also cause bleeding and some discomfort.
When selecting the appropriate needle length for your skin concern, consider the following guidelines:Shallow acne scars typically require a 1.00 mm needleDeep acne scars benefit from a 1.50 mm needleEnlarged pores and skin blemishes can be treated with needles ranging from 0.25 to 0.50 mm in lengthSkin discoloration scars may necessitate starting with the smallest size and gradually increasing to 1.00 mmPhotoaged or sagging skin typically responds well to needles measuring 0.50 to 1.
50 mmStretch marks, which often require a needle exceeding 1.0 mm in length, should only be treated under the supervision of a professionalSurgical scars may benefit from a 1.50 mm needleUneven skin texture or tone can be addressed with a 0.50 mm needleWrinkles and fine lines are typically treated using needles ranging from 0.50 to 1.50 mm in length
Suggestion
For those new to derma rolling at home, I recommend starting with a device featuring needles between 0.25 mm and 1.00 mm in length. In contrast, professionals may utilize longer needles, up to 1.5 mm or more, although the longest permitted length is typically capped at 3 mm. It’s worth noting that these longer needles are only used following proper numbing of the skin to minimize discomfort.
How to Use a Derma Roller
To get the most out of your derma roller investment, mastering its usage is crucial. Fortunately, with these simple steps, you’ll be well on your way to achieving optimal results.
Start by preparing your skin for treatment. Cleanse and moisturize your face or area of concern as you normally would, removing any makeup, dirt, or impurities that may interfere with the rolling process. Next, gently stretch the target area taut, allowing the derma roller to glide smoothly over the surface.
Begin by rolling in multiple directions – vertically, horizontally, and diagonally – focusing on one section at a time to maintain even coverage. Apply gentle to moderate pressure, depending on your individual skin type and desired outcome.
Remember to roll slowly and deliberately, taking care not to press too hard or move too quickly, which can cause irritation or damage to the skin.
Repeat this process for each area you wish to treat, being mindful of any sensitive spots or bony areas that may require extra caution.
Step 1: Prep your skin
To get started, begin by gently cleansing your skin using a pH-balanced cleanser designed for your specific skin type. This will help remove dirt, makeup, and other impurities that can clog pores and dull your complexion. From there, use a gentle exfoliant to buff away any remaining dead skin cells or grime that may be lingering on the surface of your face.
Step 2: Exfoliate
While exfoliation might not be crucial, its benefits can’t be overstated. In fact, ridding your skin of dead cells prior to a treatment can make all the difference. By incorporating exfoliation into your routine, you’ll be preparing your skin for optimal results.
Step 3: Wash Your Face
Double-check your facial cleanliness by washing your face one more time, using plain water if needed, to eliminate any remaining impurities.
Step 4: Apply an Anesthetic Cream (Optional)
When working with original content like this image, please be considerate and give credit where credit is due by referencing this page. 📸 For individuals who experience discomfort or sensitivity when receiving needlework, applying a topical anesthetic cream can be a game-changer in terms of pain management. To utilize the cream effectively, simply follow the instructions provided on the packaging.
When utilizing needles longer than 1 mm, it’s highly recommended to employ the numbing cream as prolonged use may lead to increased discomfort. It’s essential to adhere to the package guidelines and remove any remaining cream carefully after the specified time frame has elapsed.
Step 5: Begin Derma Rolling
To derma roll effectively, apply gentle pressure that feels comfortable to your skin. Be cautious when targeting more delicate areas, as excessive force could cause discomfort or even injury. It’s essential to avoid applying too much pressure around the eye sockets, as this can be particularly sensitive. When rolling, divide your face into 4 sections and work on one area at a time to ensure thorough coverage.
Roll the microneedles in both directions for 6-8 repetitions, adjusting the number based on your individual skin sensitivity and tolerance. If you notice any redness or tingling, discontinue use. Before treating areas with noticeable wrinkles, take a moment to stretch the skin gently to create a more receptive environment for the microneedles.
Step 6: Wash Your Face
When incorporating intense derma rolling into your skincare routine, it’s crucial to prepare your skin beforehand. One effective method is to apply saline swabs to your skin for 1-2 hours prior to the treatment. This helps stimulate blood flow and enhance the effectiveness of the rolling process. For a standard at-home session, rinse your skin with cold water after derma rolling to close pores and reduce irritation.
Additionally, it’s essential to avoid taking hot baths or showers in the days following a derma rolling session, as this can further irritate the skin. Similarly, refrain from using warm water during the initial recovery period, as your skin will be more sensitive than usual.
Step 7: Finish off in style!
To further enhance the benefits of your skincare routine, it’s essential to incorporate serums or moisturizing creams that contain vitamins A and C. These nutrients play a crucial role in stimulating collagen production, which in turn can accelerate the healing process. Additionally, consider applying a topical antibiotic cream to prevent infections from setting in. As you await the effects of these products, take this opportunity to unwind and let your skin do its thing.
How Often Should You Use a Derma Roller?
When it comes to determining the frequency of microneedling treatments, several factors come into play. Specifically, the size of the needles and the skin condition you’re trying to address will influence your schedule. To help guide your decision-making process, here’s a breakdown of typical treatment intervals based on needle size: • For 0.25 mm needles, a good rule of thumb is to schedule appointments every two weeks. • With 0.5 mm and 1.
0 mm needles, you can expect to visit your practitioner once every three weeks or once a month, respectively. • If using 1.5 mm or 2.0 mm needles, you’ll likely need to wait around a month between treatments for the larger sizes.
I Tried Derma Rolling Too. Before and After Pictures
With an insatiable curiosity, I decided to give derma rolling a shot – no skin concerns to address or benefits to gain, simply a desire to experience the process firsthand. Upon hearing about micro-needling, I knew I had to try it out for myself. Without delving too deeply into research and reviews, I purchased a 0.5 mm needle derma roller, opting for a cautious approach. Now, let me walk you through my experience.
Before Derma Rolling
I had a specific area of concern on my body – my forehead. As you can see from the before photos, I had several small pimples and red patches that gave it an uneven appearance. Unhappy with its condition, I was eager to try micro-needling to see if it would improve the look of my forehead. To provide a clear comparison, here’s a full-face photo taken before starting the treatment.
How Derma Rolling Felt
I embarked on an experiment with a mix of curiosity and caution. While it wasn’t an enjoyable experience, it didn’t leave me feeling anxious or uneasy either. My aim was to expose all my skin to the sensation and observe the outcome. As I lay there, I couldn’t help but feel a tingling and itching sensation, followed by a gradual reddening of my skin. The fact that the needles were relatively short meant no bleeding occurred, which provided some comfort.
Despite the initial discomfort, I made a conscious effort to relax and be as gentle as possible throughout the process. Throughout it all, I had a palpable sense that blood was coursing through my veins and something remarkable was unfolding!
1 Day After Derma Rolling
Twenty-four hours after the treatment, I still had a noticeable flush on my skin. But what caught my attention was when my boyfriend, known for his lack of observational skills, complimented me on my complexion, describing it as ‘looking very healthy’. His comment gave me a boost of confidence, and I began to notice subtle changes in my skin’s texture. It felt tighter, shinier, and more vibrant than before. These improvements were a testament to the treatment’s effectiveness.
2 Days After Derma Rolling
Two days post-treatment, my skin experienced a remarkable transformation. I noticed an undeniable tightening sensation, as if it had been infused with new life. My complexion took on a radiant glow, leaving me feeling invigorated and confident. Furthermore, the redness on my forehead noticeably subsided, revealing a smoother, more even-toned surface.
Conclusion
When I became enamored with micro-needling, I felt compelled to delve deeper into the facts and share my findings with you. While many are familiar with this treatment, there’s a dearth of scientific information available for everyday readers. As someone who has ‘stuck’ themselves with needles (laughs), I’m sure you’re curious about what’s happening beneath the surface! My hope is that by sharing my research, you’ll gain a better understanding of this innovative technique.
If you’ve had a chance to try derma rolling yourself, I’d love to hear your thoughts and experiences!
